VIDEO – ONE WAVE AT A TIME –
May 24, 2023 – I had a spiritual awakening. I started making the YouTube videos to help me stay sober. Surfing was reintroduced to my life. I had a lot of time on my hands. I wasn’t partying. I was just living my life. I surfed every day. I became the novelty guy. I think I popularized it.
I was surfing the bay, when the waves got big enough to wrap around the island. My big breakthrough performance was when I surfed the Cape May ferry. It puts out a little wake behind it, so I did that. Emotionally, it was something that I felt like was impossible but I did it. You described the day you surfed every New Jersey beach town as the “gnarliest” day of your life. You’ve surfed all over world; what can you say about Jersey surfing?
I really love New Jersey. My grandparents are still in Longport. My dad’s back and forth in Pennsylvania. My brothers live here. All my friends. This whole surfing career, it was such a late bloom in my life. I wasn’t a ‘professional surfer’ until I was 30 years old. I look at myself as a very normal person who still happens to do this.
