July 27, 2023 – If anyone had asked if I thought something was missing from my drinks, I certainly wouldn’t have guessed it was the alcohol. This was, of course, a detail created by design. At Eight Row – named for the largest cherry size on a standard measuring guide for the fruit – intentionality is written on the menu and displayed everywhere you look. At the bar, beer taps are made from repurposed pruning shears, and an expansive collection of non-alcoholic wine and spirits is displayed alongside mainstream alcohol brands. The vegetable-forward menu reads like a love letter to the bounty of the Pacific Northwest, with much of the restaurant’s produce sourced from Nichols’ family farm and orchard along the Wenatchee River, just two hours east of Seattle.
But what isn’t on the menu is Nichols’ four years of sobriety. His wife and general manager, Kate Willman Nichols, has been sober for 10 years. Their lead bartender, Anthony Spruill, has been sober two years.
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